Learning Rock Climbing Holds And Names

In order to move up rock, you need to learn the holds of rock climbing. A hold in this case refers to something you can grab on to, pull on, step on, slip your hand into and or curl around. Some holds may be perfect for the hands yet unsuitable as foot holds. Holds can be used in a variety of ways particularly when they become smaller, further apart, less obvious or sloping. With experience and practice you will develop the skill to distinguish which holds to use, how and in what order. The ways in which holds are used depends to some degree on your physique, strength and reach. The following rock climbing instructions will hopefully increase your skill level.

Climbers of different builds can use the same set of rock climbing techniques in different ways to suit their body and style of climbing. The hold should be used in a way which minimizes energy use and allows progress for the next hold. You can get pretty creative with them. However, some rock climbs are so hard that there is usually only one right way to progress.

Holds don’t have to be a series of horizontal edges that the hands curl around and the feet stand on. There is a whole range of sizes, shapes and angles. Holds are usually most effective when you pull or push them in the direction opposite to the one which they face. For example, a horizontal hold is best pulled down on and a vertical edge or side pull is best used for leaning sideways. As a climber, you must use your imagination and use the environment available to you. You’ll discover ways in which your body has never bended, muscles you’ve never used, and holds you never dreamed could work.

Hand holds come in many different forms but the easiest to use are those that are basically horizontal and with holes. The more a climbing hold slope outwards, the less reassuring it will feel. If the hold is big enough to fit the whole hand, use your whole hand. If it’s smaller, try to get as many fingers on as possible. To strengthen your grip, put some fingers on top of one another. This will also help to make the hand more stable on the hold. When your fingers and thumb are tightly pressed together, they become one, and you can generate more strength. 

On the tiniest holds, such as those found on difficult slabs, the thumb itself may be placed on the hold and the other fingers stacked on top of it to bring more of the muscles of the forearm into play. The wrist and arm should be arranged so that the pull comes downwards on the hold and minimizes the outward force which would make it less secure. On larger but sloping holds, friction plays an important role, so get as much of the fingers and hand placed on the rock. This is known as palming. Even with finger holds, valuable support can be gained by pressing the heel of the hand on to the rock below the hold itself.

Precise and accurate foot work is essential for good climbing. The foot should be placed on the hold while actually looking at the hold. Decide on the best way to use the hold before stepping on to it. The smaller the hold, the more accurate the foot placement should be. When your foot is on the hold, keep still. On weak holds a small shift may be enough to cause a slip. Hand holds are more forgiving.

Foot holds are used in two basic ways: edging and smearing. Edging is primarily used on positive holds which are relatively sharp-edged or when wearing stiff footwear. It is usually the inside edge of the boot under the big toe and the ball of the foot that make contact, although it can be any part of the sole. Using the inside edge gives good support yet does not strain the legs or the calves, much. If the toe is used, such as in small pockets or on tiny holds, it can become tiring and painful because of the increased leverage on the feet and legs. It does, however, put the body slightly further out from the rock which can be advantageous in some situations. When edging, the ankle is normally kept above the level of the hold to maintain pressure down on to it.

Smearing is a technique used mainly on sloping or rounded holds. The sole of your shoes uses friction to grip the hold on the rock. When smearing, the toe is generally standing with ankle flexed to give maximum rock to rubber contact. On marginal smearing holds, the foot may feel like it is slipping. To counteract this, you have to put more weight on the hold. The boot may even begin to slip as the weight is being transferred on to or off it. This type of climbing is quite dangerous and should not be for beginners.

Many holds can be either edged or smeared and the actual way of using the foot depends on your own preference. Factors like how strong your feet are, the type of footwear worn and how good the edges are, can make the difference in use. Generally, stiffer boots make it easier to edge. Flexible boots are better for smearing.

Rock climbing is like a slow controlled dance and your partner is the rock. In order to make it look easy, you have to pay attention to what your partner is giving you. If the hold is there, make use of it. Don’t force a hold and don’t do anything beyond your abilities. How you use the climbing holds is up to your physical abilities and how you plan your progress. Most importantly, have fun!